Tuesday, 1 March 2022

Blue Circassian Coat - Finished

The length of the coat is done in the last phase. I left one panel free so that I was able to get inside and sew all other lower edges of lining and coat together. Then I repeated sewing in the golden trimming so that the lower edge would remain folded.
I hand-stitched the last panel. I have ironed the coat before sewing the lower edge, so now I am trying to keep it on the sewing dummy as much as possible.
Ironing the lower edge, removing the basting and ironing the lining fold.
I ironed the sleeve - I had to press on the right side, so I used a piece of cloth not to leave iron marks on there.
The sleeve is caught only with a few stitches at the seam.
I measured the hooks and eyes for the closure. When I sew, the hook/eye is always aligned with the edge.
The hooks/eyes at the very top and bottom are sewn once again through all layers.
I cannot believe it. It is really finally done.
I love the trimming.

Tuesday, 22 February 2022

Blue Circassian Coat - Sleeves & Gold Trimming

I cut out the sleeves. I placed the trimming half a centimeter from the edge and sewed on.
The upper sleeve is contstructed from one piece this time. The original sleeve pattern, then 20 cm mirrored, and 23 cm mirrored back (the lining piece is 3 cm shorter so that the lining would not be visible at the end).
I prepared the sleeves with lining - I sewed each sleeve alone and then sewed them together.
I added a line of stitches through trimming and woolen sleeve again to keep the edge folded in place.
I pinned the sleeves together, cut the woolen one to 1 cm seam allowance, leaving at least half a centimeter longer lining piece.
Lower edge of the coat is trimmed as well. Then I prepared the corners the way I did with the previous coat.
I basted the sleeves and I decided to slightly adjust the pattern for better fitting.
Woolen sleeves are basted and sewn in first. The body is turned over to wrong side, while the sleeve remains at its right side.
Then inserting the lining sleeves seems like a gynecologic operation. Very few place to sew in, chaotic mass of twisted fabric everywhere... At least no basting - the inner sleeves are not so important as for the looks.
Finally pressing the armhole seam allowances towards the sleeve and turning the coat back to the right side.
Sleeves are finished.

Sunday, 6 February 2022

Blue Circassian Coat - Lining

I ironed the linen, folded in half and drew the pattern.
This is the center front. The hemming is 1+3+1 cm wide, so I have to substract 3 cm and add one back for the seam allowance. Other seam allowances are always 1 cm.
I sewed the lining pieces together.
I sewed the lining and woolen bodies together at the front edge. I stopped in half the lower hem width.
This is the joining between the sewn on and left center front hemming pieces.
I tried to press the lining with my nails.
However, there were some places that would not be nice without iron and I found a few mistakes along the way...
This is what such a mistake looks from the right side...
... and this is the cause visible from the wrong side.
So some extra time needed for fixing the bugs :-)

Wednesday, 5 January 2022

Blue Circassian Coat - Front Edge and Gaziri

I started again with the gores, shoulders and back seams. Somewhere it is good idea to start the gore tip with hand sewing because the heavy material shifts as hell :-D
I cut out the front edge lining, 1+3+1 cm wide. Fusible web goes on the gores corner, front shoulder seam and the front edge lining. 
I sewed on the front lining, leaving the 1cm seam allowance, just cutting it at the back neckline and making corners a little smaller.
Hand sewing at the waist to connect the lining piece with the wide front seam allowance of the skirt.
A line of stitches at the footer width goes the front edge. I press the seam open before this operation.
I sewed on the gold trim to the coat leaving a small distance from the edge. Center front line of stitches goes through both layers of wool, while the other one goes only through the upper layer. I decorated the gaziri pieces measuring even distances for eye candy feeling :-)
The trimming is so beautiful and pleasure to work with! I did not have to make any folds even at curves.
Let's go for the gaziri. I folded and sewed through the left and right edge at the trim.
I have drawn the lines - 2.5 cm to the panel and 5 cm to the gaziri piece. The work is then the same as at the grey coat.
The only difference is a way better feeling after the work is done. The trimming makes the uniform 100% nicer.
I cannot understand why the other boy wanted a plain coat...

Tuesday, 7 December 2021

Paragliding Keychain

We are moving to a new flat and I was looking for something to put on my keys. My boyfriend gave me the red ribbon with an aviatic theme. And... he by the way told me to make him a keychain.

I wanted something really special for us and keep the toppic of my keychain at the same time. So I chose his favourite paragliding sentence. Turn and push. Which means turn the thermal and push the speedbar - the basic concept of flying the fastest and the furthest. I also used a material from an aviatic  face mask that he personaly sewed and had no longer use for.

I ironed a fusible web on and marked the borders. I drew the letters with a special marker that should disappear and started to embroider with my machine. For the letters, I use zig-zag stitch. Not a perfectly dense one, because it gets stuck. I prefer to use a bit sparse stitch and always go the same spot twice. Unfortunately, the letters are too wide and I did not get the "and" between the words turn and push, whatever.
For the tracklog, I was altering freehand stitching with a flat front stitch - I was putting the feed dog up and down between the sections.

I folded the piece, sewed along the edge with a straight stitch, cut it out and used two layers of zig-zag stitch to cover the edges. The marker is still visible, I used an eraser marker and iron to remove it.

I wish he always turns his thermals safely and finds me waiting for him with loving arms open.

Monday, 29 November 2021

Grey Circassian Coat - Finished

I finished the details on the lower edge and ironed it.

I front stitched the sleeve through both layers at the folding and ironed the fold. This is NOT what you want to see after such an operation!!!

I refused to rip out at the armhole, so I did this between the linen and wool and sewed them back together in the right position, in hand with an invisible stitch.
Tadaaa! :-)

Grey Circassian Coat - Hemming

At the lining, only the first front pieces have attached lining at the lower edge, so I could turn the coat inside out and insert the woolen sleeves and then the lining sleeves too.
I sewed these together at the shoulder seam allowance and pressed it inside the sleeve.
I also ironed the lower edge as a preparation for hand sewing.
I found out there was too much material because of the wide skirt, so I took out half a centimeter at each seam. I sewed the lining to the coat at the lower edge, leaving out just one gore which will be sewn on by hand.
I used catchstitch to keep the facing in place.
The last part of the lining was sewn on with an invisible stitch.