Blue Circassian Coat - Sleeves & Gold Trimming

I cut out the sleeves. I placed the trimming half a centimeter from the edge and sewed on.

The upper sleeve is contstructed from one piece this time. The original sleeve pattern, then 20 cm mirrored, and 23 cm mirrored back (the lining piece is 3 cm shorter so that the lining would not be visible at the end).

I prepared the sleeves with lining - I sewed each sleeve alone and then sewed them together.
I added a line of stitches through trimming and woolen sleeve again to keep the edge folded in place.

I pinned the sleeves together, cut the woolen one to 1 cm seam allowance, leaving at least half a centimeter longer lining piece.

Lower edge of the coat is trimmed as well. Then I prepared the corners the way I did with the previous coat.

I basted the sleeves and I decided to slightly adjust the pattern for better fitting.

Woolen sleeves are basted and sewn in first. The body is turned over to wrong side, while the sleeve remains at its right side.

Then inserting the lining sleeves seems like a gynecologic operation. Very few place to sew in, chaotic mass of twisted fabric everywhere... At least no basting - the inner sleeves are not so important as for the looks.

Finally pressing the armhole seam allowances towards the sleeve and turning the coat back to the right side.

Sleeves are finished.

Blue Circassian Coat - Lining

I ironed the linen, folded in half and drew the pattern.

This is the center front. The hemming is 1+3+1 cm wide, so I have to substract 3 cm and add one back for the seam allowance. Other seam allowances are always 1 cm.

I sewed the lining pieces together.

I sewed the lining and woolen bodies together at the front edge. I stopped in half the lower hem width.

This is the joining between the sewn on and left center front hemming pieces.

I tried to press the lining with my nails.

However, there were some places that would not be nice without iron and I found a few mistakes along the way...

This is what such a mistake looks from the right side...

... and this is the cause visible from the wrong side.

So some extra time needed for fixing the bugs :-)