Sunday, 7 October 2012

Brown Fiertoch

This is a part of a traditional folk costume from Spytihněv (south Moravia). Fiertoch is the topmost layer of the skirt. It is tied around the waist like an apron.
My niece has chosen beatiful brown&gold brocade. I sewed a stripe long about three meters from stiff fabric, ironed the three edges of a brocade rectangle and sewed it on.
Then I spent about 8 hours handstitching a spangle band to the brocade. I watch TV when doing things like this, not to get crazy :-D
The band must be neat even at the wrong side. Folkers are perfectionists when it comes to their costume...
I gathered the upper and lower part. I did it in hand, but at the waist I machine sewed an auxiliary line of stitches which helped me keep the length of gathering stitches.
You can see the process - what the fabric looks like when you just gather it without manually straightening each pleat.
Brocade frays easily so I cut the upper edge as late as I could. The gathering here was nice and accordion-like.
At the bottom, the size of stitches corresponds with the width of the pattern - I always go throung the same place of the pattern.
I love this state :-)
Here I just sewed on two connected rectangles - one from lining and one from brocade.
I always wonder if I should sew it on by machine, the gathering is at least 5 mm tall... But usually I get surprised by how easy it is.
I sewed the lining to the back in hand. What's left now: sewing a white ribbon to the sides as a fastening and leave like this for at least a week. The gathering stitches are always taken out right before one takes it on to preserve the desired accordion shape.
So this is one little piece of the million-pieces Spytihněv folklore dress. Luckily, the rest is not my business :-D

Sunday, 9 September 2012

Renaissance Dress - Sleeves

I cut all the pieces for the sleeves. It seems like a few but takes a lot of time.
I toughtened all of the edges with a fusible web (the lining too for the grommets not to rip out).
I sewed tubes, ironed to bands that I cut to small pieces. I serged a line of tubes like at the Cranach dress.
After sewing the bands to the upper edge of the lower sleeve I sewed on the lining. Carefully not to catch the side band.
I folded the lower hem and sewed on with a hidden stitch (machine). Then I sewed on the upper part of the sleeve. This time, unlike at the Cranach dress, I leave the sleeves flat as long as it's possible.
I ironed the edge aroung the bands and added a line of stitches there.
As drying is one of important phases of ironing, I let the sleeves dry in the shape I'd like it to stay in. On my hula hoop :-)
At the upper sleeves, I sewed the bands on the sleeve first and then I sewed on the lining.
I serged the sides and added a lot of grommets.
I sewed the sides together and that's all :)

Tuesday, 28 August 2012

Orange Fire Costume

I made a fireshow waistcoat for my boyfriend.
The design is from both of us - he wanted a sleeve on the right arm (he spits fire and wipes the oil from his mouth to it). I made up the rest :)

I didn't have a cord or leather thick enough, so I had to braid a thin cord and I quite like it :)

Monday, 27 August 2012

Renaissance Dress - Corset Base

I fitted the bodice for the renaissance dress. I made a pattern for the other layers; one from canvas and one from brocade.

The second layer in progress. The first layer has wide seam allowance for the bone to fit in.

I put the two layers together and sewed them carefully at the seams.

I have prepared a pleated skirt. I has a small sweep :)
Oh, I love sweeps!

The brocade covering. I tried to match the pattern at the bust, it's not perfect, but it should do..

I cut the sleeve from the fitting and made a pattern from it.