I started again with the gores, shoulders and back seams. Somewhere it is good idea to start the gore tip with hand sewing because the heavy material shifts as hell :-D
I cut out the front edge lining, 1+3+1 cm wide. Fusible web goes on the gores corner, front shoulder seam and the front edge lining.
I sewed on the front lining, leaving the 1cm seam allowance, just cutting it at the back neckline and making corners a little smaller.
Hand sewing at the waist to connect the lining piece with the wide front seam allowance of the skirt.
A line of stitches at the footer width goes the front edge. I press the seam open before this operation.
I sewed on the gold trim to the coat leaving a small distance from the edge. Center front line of stitches goes through both layers of wool, while the other one goes only through the upper layer. I decorated the gaziri pieces measuring even distances for eye candy feeling :-)
The trimming is so beautiful and pleasure to work with! I did not have to make any folds even at curves.
Let's go for the gaziri. I folded and sewed through the left and right edge at the trim.
I have drawn the lines - 2.5 cm to the panel and 5 cm to the gaziri piece. The work is then the same as at the grey coat.
The only difference is a way better feeling after the work is done. The trimming makes the uniform 100% nicer.
I cannot understand why the other boy wanted a plain coat...
I cannot understand why the other boy wanted a plain coat...