My schoolmate from tailors' training centre is getting married. This is the image she showed me as a template.
I first made the garment from a loose coat, tried it on her and made it slimmer. Then, when I had the complete pattern, I cut it out from the real material.
I cut out all the pieces and started with sleeves at they are the easiest part to prepare. I sewed both the lining and the knit sleeves at the bottom edge together. I ironed the seam, leaving one centimer hanging down to get more loosenes of the lining. Then I sewed the sleeves side seam in one long line of stitches.
I pinned the sleeves together and marked the upper edge of the lining - it will be one cm bigger than the upper sleeve.
The breast tucks are not sewn with a direct line, it has to start and end almost invisibly for perfect outcome.
I made the rear and front tucks on the outer pieces, then on the lining. Just for the breast "tucks", they are only folded on lining.
After some horrible result at the neck lining, I decided to sew the pieces together in hand. The lining fabric is really stiff and thick (which you don't want for any lining...)
I ironed the satin fabric at the basting, making cuts to the seam allowance a few milimeters from the edge.
Hand sewing, taking always just a milimeter from the lining. In fact, there was more hand sewing than I had expected at this coat. I pinned the paper template to the panel and once more traced the neckline to fit perfectly.
I prepared the invisible zipper fastening. The center seam was sewn up to the point where the zipper would start. I aligned the teeth with the basting and sewed one side with the zipper open.
Front facing has fusible web pressed on. I sewed it on the front pieces.
I sewed the coat lining to the upper fabric on front facing. Then I had tough time assembling the shoulders, because there are two upper front pieces and two lining front pieces at each shoulder.
I sewed together just one layer of lining that is the closest to the body. That's one shoulder seam. Then all the upper layers together in correct order. That's the second shoulder seam.
Zipper lining was sewn on by hand.
When all this was done, I could baste (by machine) the front panels together at the armhole.
Leaving the coat without sleeves for a while, I got down to the lower hemming. The edge is not ironed right in the seam, but two milimeters to the upper piece, so that the seam is hidden. This is a tailor's stuff whose english word I have no idea about :-D
So I also had to sew the corner a few milimeters aside.
I sewed the lining at the lower edge by machine and pinned the facing. Then I dived into the coat from the inner side and attached the facing with herringbone stitch. Very light and loose, catching only one or half a thread.
I made all the lower hem - machine sewing + herringbone stitch.
Side slits lining done all by haaaand....
The sleeve was sewn by machine, while the armpit was sewn twice at the same place. As you can see, there were waves at the shoulder at that point.
I turned the seam allowance towards the neckline and pressed the little waves and the allowance. Then I turned it towards the sleeve and pressed the seam to stay there.
Now it looks much better - fabric lays flat.
I cut the edges of lining sleeve (I did that as late as possible, as it frays as hell) to be one centimeter longer than the real sleeve and hand sewed it to the lining body. Increasing the size has a pleasant side effect - it can be sewn flat as the seamlines have similar length now (usually the sleeve seamline is like 5 cm longer than the armhole).
And this is the main reason why here also in hand. There is one of the front pieces attached to the lining. It's like a brain-teaser to assemble all this together.
I hung the coand and I pinned the bottom of the lining. Then I pressed it to get clean sharp edge.
Done.
I'm done :-D
Pants will follow.
I'm done :-D
Pants will follow.
