Tuesday, 28 August 2007

Laced seams

What takes me some time in these days is setting lace to seams of some historical garment - don't know the english name, czech is varkoč and it could also be called sagum. It usually protected the armor from sun and weather, but we'll use it for parades, for our people without costumes. I have six sagums to do. They're already cut, zig-zagged and embroided so I have just the seams..
As I said before velvet is a tricky thing and it can move when you sew. I found out that I can minimize it when I hold the lace like this, I still hold the lace I'm just sewing. The basic thing is to decide where you want the lace and don't bother how it moves - when you do this it will move the same at all places so it won't be visible.

And there's one more thing. When I sew a curve I don't (not always) have to fold the lace (left picture). The red arrows mark direction of the fibres. If you deform the lace like this it will repair itself in time you make the second curve.

And this is the sagum. The cut made me think of a dress, that's why this photo was taken like this, but of course it's a men's matter :-D

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