Tuesday, 15 December 2009

Yellow-Brown Dress - Gores

A dress for a friend of mine. I've owed it to her for more than a year:-)
Now we finally got to the pattern - I arranged the fabric on her and made a paper pattern. That was necessary as the dress should be lined. In fact two identical dresses sewn together.
This is the pattern I got. I has a tuck on a spine and should have one gore in the front, one at the back. The lining doesn't have a seam at shoulders, unfortunately I didn't have enough brown canvas to cut this as a whole.

The worst part - the gore. I have been searching for another method than this. I made more than fifteen models of the gore's tip. But this way I got the best results.
I cut an opening for the gore. I made a little tuck at the top - a cm high and about three milimeters wide.

I pinned the gore to the dress. I drew a mark on the dress, twenty centimeters below the tip, and that's where I put the edges equally.
You may spot a pin on the left, it helps me to know, wheather the tip of the gore and the end of the tuck are exactly one on the other (it must then stand upright).

I jabbed the needle to where the tuck ended. I can move my needle left or right, so I arranged it so that the edge of the gore would follow the left side of the foot.

I sewed in a stable distance from the gore edge. In my opinion, at this technique it would be better to iron vlieselin on before cutting and sewing for it not to fray out.

But not necessarily. The gore has wide enough allowances and attaching these to the dress should cover the narrow ones securely.
I won't do any of these, seam allowances will be hidden inside the dress.

The gore at the right side.

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