I sewed the body together at the hips and shoulders.
I folded it in the middle, wrong sides in. I cut the shape of the neckline and measured it with a meter in an upright position.
I drew the collar pattern on a piece of interfacing. I cut it out and ironed on a bias strip of velvet.
I folded it in the middle,right sides in, sewed the ends and cut the seam allowance. You can see I folded the outer collar's seam allowance upwards.
I pinned the inner collar to the wrong side of the neckline. It's advisable to mark the center back and position of shoulder seam on the collar so that it could look symmetrical.
I sewed the collar in and ironed the seam allowance to the collar. I laid the outer collar to cover the basic stitches and sewed on near the edge.
I hemmed the lower edge of the skirt and the sleeves. Although the sleeves' edge should be curved, at the original surcoat I was sewing according to, there was this straigt version as well.
Then I basted and sewed the sleeves.
I put the body to the skirt, middle to middle, and sewed.
I turned the surcoat inside out and put the sleeve through the neck to the armhole.
I basted it in. You may see that at the shoulder part, the sleeve is slightly gathered - it's a tailors' trick for the sleeve to fit well on the shoulder.
As the final touch, I sewed the seam allowances (pressed open) to the sleeve at the lower edge.
The main work on this surcoat is finished:-)
