Wednesday 16 July 2008

Machine Gryffins

Surcoats should have gryffin sings on them. I spied at a dressmaker and found out how to make velvet applications.
I bought vliselin (fusible web) . After ironing it sticks. I ironed one piece on the velvet so that if wouldn't fray when I cut the shape. Then I took other piece and drew the picture on it (reverse).

I put these two one on the other, not glued sides together, and sewed along the line. I gained a lot of experience during this as I'd always sewn just rather straight lines :)
Mum bought me a special marker that disappears after some time, that's why you can't see the drawing (you could notice that it didn't fully match what's sewn :-D ). Then I cut it a mm from the stitches.

A gryffin prepared to become an application should look like this, if you don't look at the tail. This was my first piece and I reverted it wrong so that I didn't have enouhg space for this member:)

Ironed on the surcoat. I didn't move the iron over it, I rather laid it on the fabric several times not to affect the tiny segments. The main ironing took part from the wrong side.

Then the most demanding. Machine embroidery (I'd never thought I'd be able to do any).
If you pass the main need for this (experience and craft) I have several tips for those who'd like to try. When you want to turn and sew back, about 360°, don't forget that you'll get the needle on the wrong side - it will start sewing next to your line. You should bring the needle up and move the footer.

I had to sew tiny parts with sharp points. At things like claws I sewed faster so that there weren't a lot of threads and I didn't get stuck on a place. It doesn't matter because you sew back at these places and the stitches are doubled. When you accidentaly stay on one place you can temporarily increase the length of stitches (but carefully). Or you can just use your power to get it out, then it's better if you don't hold the fabric near the application, it could crouch unrepairably around it.

The fast arcs are done like tank driving. One hand on the fabric is moved forward and one backward in a circle around the needle. The faster you go backwards the smaller the arc.

Long curves can be done almost with one finger. You stick it to the fabrick behind the needle and a bit to the left or right. When you sew you can watch the fabric turning in elegantly. At the back of the creature in the shape of S I used this finger method, changing the fingers without stopping sewing.

When you sew you should have a little space left at the edge, the application can fray and your hand can shake, it's nice when no fabric's visible at the outer side of stitches (which I didn't manage to do everywhere).

Hooray, after several days they are completed!

The one in the center was a trial. I may use it for something else:)