Friday 29 January 2010

Chemise's Collar

I made a pattern for the collar to this chemise. In fact I made about four of them. This one fitted the best. I basted it in the neckline, arranged the lace on a half of it and marked the outline according to it.

According to the pattern I got, I cut two collars, the lower was cut on the bias and sewed from two halves, the upper was cut normally and had fusible interfacing ironed on.
I folded the seam allowance in and ironed. That wasn't necessary at the lower collar..

You already know the principals of pinning in quarters:-)

Each arch was divided in thirds, I drew them on the collar with chalk.

I sewed the pleats with a sewing thread instead of the basting one, I'll let those stitches there inside the collar.

The lace has been carefully ironed.

I had to make the corners in the lace. I sewed them diagonally..

..cut the allowance and pressed flat..

..zig-zag stitched and draged the threads under the stitches.

I finished the whole lace. I turned it inside and put the lower collar on the upper one (right sides together). I sewed in the seamline, except for the corners, then I turned it over and sewed the corners in hand.

I cut the lower collar in the neckline edge a bit more than the upper one was.

That made the final shape of the collar, it shouldn't be flat. I arranged the neckline edges to the same level and sewed them together so that the stitches would stay in the seam allowance.