Inserting the sleeves. As the spot in the armpit will be the most strained, I sewed a cm inside the seam allowance to help it.
Then I took the sleeve, let the shoulder and underarm marks at both the pieces face and pinned together. The sleeve is bigger than the armhole so it had to be a little gathered (everywhere but at the armpit).
I basted it, using a back stitch every now and then for the gathers not to shift.
Here you can see my inner conflict between the historical seamstress and the modern dressmaker, I'm being elevated to be in these days:-) I hope I will find some reasonable compromise between these two when I finish the school (actually I'd be pleased if I could be as little of the latter as possible, except hand sewing which I don't prefer)...
I steam ironed the gathering so that I could sew it. The gathers almost disappeared. It makes sewing easy because no tuck may develop at the sleeve when you sew.
After the first two sleeves, I tried not to sew the cm short seam, because it made sewing difficult. First I sewed the sleeve on and then closed the side in hand.
Both parts of the dress prepared for the completion. Let's go.
I pinned them in a few places to be in the same position (shoulders, necklines, sleeve seams), laid them flat and pinned the two colours together along the edge.
I sewed from one armpit to the other a cm from the edge.
For the lacing to be durable and not to fray out, I ironed a band of vlieselin.
Turning over, rolling the rims in my fingers and ironing on the lining side.
I almost forgot to make small cuts at seam allowances in curves:)