Pirate - Waistcoat Progress

The fitting was OK, I just trimmed the armholes.
I sewed the basted shoulder tucks (from the edge to the tip) and pressed them to the center of the back panel.

I sewed the front and back pieces together in the shoulder and side seams.
I serged the seam allowances and ironed them.

I made the armhole lining. I traced the armhole edge on the fabric, folded the piece in shoulder and side seam and traced these too.

I made the neckline linings in similar way and added all seam allowances.

I ironed vlieselin strips on for the edges not to stretch out and become wavy.
I sewed the lining pieces together and serged the inner edges.
I pinned them right side to right side to the right places and sewed on at five milimeters.

Pirate - Shirt Finished

I made the collar in the same way as the cuffs.
Only the pattern is different.

I sewed the inner part first, folded the outer seam allowance down and sewed on by machine at the inner side.

The finished shirt :-)
I also made the brown trousers. The same as always ..

Pirate - Waistcoat Pattern

I had a faded blue cotton canvas, quite a heavy one. I'd wanted it for my larp/medieval dress, but now I decieded it was the right material for the pirate's waistcoat.
I drew a pattern - originally it was a pattern of men shirt, I just didn't make the yoke and sleeves.

The armholes look a bit weird, I hope I'll be able to fix this at the fitting.
I cut the pieces out like this, so I had the chalk lines only on one side.
I laid a carbon paper with the colour upwards, put the waist on it. I pressed my dot-wheel at the lines so that the carbon paper left traces on the lower layer.

I basted the tucks, the shoulder and side seams.
I pressed the seam allowances and let's go for the fitting!

Pirate - Shirt's Cuffs

The cuffs are composed from two parts. I ironed the mounting on one piece of each part (to the one that's closer to the hand).

I sewed along the three edges of the upper parts. I cut the seam allowances to half a centimeter and turned the cuff right side out.

I made a line of stitches at all the edges.
I pinned one lower part to this and sewed in less than a centimeter. This compensates for basting.

I laid the other lower part to the upper one and sewed through all four layers in a centimeter distance. I stopped exactly where the upper part of the cuff ends.

I pushed the upper part of the cuff away and sewed perpendicularly to the first sewing. I stopped one centimeter before the end.

At this point, the cuffs were ready to be sewn in. I pinned and sewed the outer cuff to the right side of the sleeve.

Then I folded the inner cuff's seam allowance under and basted so that it would cove the previous stitches. I sewed over the lower part of the cuff at the right side.

I marked the size of the cuff at the fitting and made the fastening.
A pearly button and a hand-sewn buttonhole :)

Pirate - Shirt's Body

I gathered the sleeves at the hand and at the shoulder as well as the front part of the neckline.
I did it this way: I set the length of stitch to four milimeters, sewed along the edge, made one stitch up and sewed along the first line of stitches. Then I pulled the lower threads.

I had to add gores to the armpit. I serged the gores and the sleeves first. I sewed a gore to the sleeve, brought the needle down at the corner...

...turned the fabric and sewed plumb to the edge of the sleeve. I also turned the tip of the gore to me before sewing.

This allowed me to iron the gore like this so that I could sew the sleeves together without having any unwanted part of the triangle dangling out.

I pinned the gathered sleeves right side to the right side to the body.
I watched the lower edges of the sleeves to be at the same distance from the lower edge of the shirt.

I sewed the sleeves in. I pulled out the upper line of the gathering and serged the sleeve and the side of the body together.

I pinned the sleeves together. I payed attention especially at the starter point and the gore seam. I stopped sewing about ten centimeters from the end.

This part was reserved for the cuff slit. I ironed its edges flat.

I sewed the hips and pressed the seam allowances flat. I made slits here as well. I turned the lower edge right sides in and sewed a corner at the width of the seam allowance.

I turned the corners to the right side and I sewed the lower hem and the slits in one operation.

Pirate - Shirt Beginning

My new task - Jack Sparrow's garments:-)
Not exactly this one (the waistcoat will be cut differently), but mostly yes.

I prepared the shirt for the fitting - I assabled only the right sleeve as you can see:-)
After the fitting, the pattern is something like this. I had to add the armpit gores for comfortable wearing.

I started with the neckline slit. I sewed two strips on along the cut.

I made the cut a little longer and made two cuts to the last stitches os the seams. I folded the strips around the edges, tucked the little triangles under and sewed them on the place.

I folded the rest of the strips around, basted and attached them by hand.

I ripped the basting out and ironed.

Staff Case

A case for my training fire staff. Has been in my head for quite a long time:-)

I pinned these hexagons on and attached them with my favourite decorative stitch.

I sewed the sides and made a tunnel for the cord. I added a pleat at the bottom to provide some space.

I love one day projects! :-)

Small Kilt - Done

I laid the pieces according to the markings from the fitting.
I put the fastening on them and marked the positions.

I pricked the stitch holes and sewed the leather strips on with a backstitch.

I sewed through all the layers so that the fastening would be stronger.

I sewed on the buckles.

I punched the holes and cut out the tips.

Finished small kilt.
Well, not a real kilt, of course:-) But enough for the LARP, I hope..

Voi

I've got an order for a pair of voi - veil poi.
You just attach your belly dance veil to the ball and that's it.
I sewed two and two eye-shaped pieces at one side together.
Then I sewed these two together inserting a loop and a cord.

I cut triangles out of the seam allowances and turned the balls inside out.

I filled them with sand and sewed the hole with the whip stitch.

I attached the swivel handles and here it is.
The veil should be just easily knotted to the loop at the bottom.

Small Kilt - After the Fitting

At the fitting, I marked the overlap of both pieces.

I double folded and sewed the edges. I hemmed the lower edge by hand so that no stitches are visible. I sewed the pleats.
I cut the unnecessary material at the pleats (otherwise it would be thick as hell), traced the shape on the lining and added seam allowances.

I sewed the lining to the piece at the waist edge.
You may notice that I made two little pleats at the butt - to provide free motion in the skirt.

I turned the lining right side out and folded the upper corners inside. You can see that I folded in one whole pleat - the lining will make it head to the center of the skirt.

I folded inside and pinned the rest of the lining. I used my arranging mannequin to get the right shape:-D
I basted the lining and then sewed it onto the piece by hand.